Timekeeping has always represented a constant human need. Yet in the world of haute horlogerie, this practical function is combined with precision micromechanical engineering and the preservation of a unique heritage.
These mechanical instruments are more than mere timekeepers: they are the result of centuries of tradition, contained within a confined space where technique and design coexist with rigour. Around the world, the great maisons continue to create pieces that become true family heirlooms and excellent vehicles for portfolio diversification.
In this expert guide, we divide the giants of watchmaking into five fundamental categories and explain how the pre-owned market has become one of today’s most profitable and vibrant alternative investment sectors.
1. The Founding Fathers
The brands that set the rules of classical watchmaking remain the pillars of any high-value collection.
Patek Philippe
Founded in Geneva in 1839 by Antoni Patek and Franciszek Czapek, the brand took its definitive form with the arrival of Adrien Philippe (inventor of the keyless winding system). With its celebrated motto “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation”, the brand is the global leader in value stability.
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Famous Collectors: Queen Victoria, Albert Einstein, Pablo Picasso and John F. Kennedy.
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Market Value: A Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime fetched a staggering 31 million Swiss francs at auction in 2019, while a historic perpetual calendar chronograph (Ref. 1518 from 1948) sold for more than 2.4 million Swiss francs in May 2024.
Breguet
Founded in Paris in 1775 by Abraham-Louis Breguet, it possesses an immeasurable inventive heritage. In 1795, Breguet designed the terminal overcoil, and in 1801 he patented the revolutionary tourbillon mechanism.
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Famous Collectors: Marie Antoinette (who commissioned one of the most famous pocket watches in history), Napoleon Bonaparte and Winston Churchill.
Vacheron Constantin
In continuous operation since 1755, it is recognised as the world’s oldest continuously operating watch manufacture. The brand, often chosen by figures such as King Farouk of Egypt, is the guardian of Genevan classicism and fine artisanal decoration (enamel, guilloché).
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Market Value: Rare examples, such as a 1951 platinum minute repeater, easily exceed the half-million-dollar mark at international auctions.
2. Icons of Sport, Culture and Fashion
These brands have transcended watchmaking to become global symbols of status, pop culture and lifestyle.
Rolex
Founded in London in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf, the brand does not focus its production on grand astronomical complications, but rather on absolute robustness. The Oyster case (1926) and the Perpetual rotor (1931) shaped the brand’s evolution.
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Famous Collectors: Paul Newman, Roger Federer and Tiger Woods.
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Market Value: Sports models such as the Daytona, Submariner and GMT-Master are highly liquid assets. The iconic gold chronograph Ref. 6263 “Lemon Paul Newman” sold in 2022 for more than 3.4 million Swiss francs.
Cartier
Focused on bold geometric design, Cartier created the Santos in 1904 (for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont), one of the first men’s wristwatches in history. It also designed classics such as the Tank (inspired by First World War military vehicles) and the sinuous Crash.
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Famous Collectors: Andy Warhol, Princess Diana, Muhammad Ali and Yves Saint Laurent.
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Market Value: The exclusivity of its shapes is reflected in recent sales, such as a rare 1986 Crash model that sold for $819,000 in New York in late 2024.
Omega
Renowned for its chronometric excellence and pioneering spirit, the brand established itself as a true giant by designing tool watches for technical purposes. Originally conceived in 1957 for motorsport, the legendary Speedmaster ultimately transcended the racetrack to become the official watch of NASA astronauts, accompanying humanity to the Moon.
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Famous Collectors: Buzz Aldrin, George Clooney and Daniel Craig.
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Market Value: Demand for well-preserved vintage examples is tremendous. A rare first-generation Speedmaster (Ref. CK2915-1 “Broad Arrow” from 1957), featuring a fabulous, beautifully aged chocolate-brown tropical dial, far exceeded estimates when it sold at a Geneva auction for an impressive 3,115,500 Swiss francs.
Do you have a watch tucked away and want to know its current value?
Schedule a confidential appraisal with our experts at Alexandra Matias Jewellery
3. The Modern and Functional Revolution
With advances in materials and a challenge to traditional silhouettes, these brands have charted new directions for sports and military watchmaking.
Audemars Piguet
Founded in 1875 and based in Le Brassus, it revolutionised the industry with the launch of the Royal Oak in 1972, a steel model that challenged gold watches in the luxury segment.
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Famous Collectors: Jay-Z, LeBron James, Serena Williams and Travis Scott.
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Market Value: Vintage models from the first-generation Royal Oak (A Series) easily exceed $100,000 at auction, proving that steel sports watches have become the new gold.
IWC Schaffhausen
Based in the German-speaking part of Switzerland, IWC revolutionised the approach to oversized dials and exceptional legibility, combining utility with high precision. Its best-known model, the Portugieser, had a unique origin in 1939: it was created at the request of two Portuguese merchants who demanded the unwavering accuracy of large marine chronometers in a wristwatch.
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Famous Collectors: Lewis Hamilton, Bradley Cooper and Quentin Tarantino.
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Market Value: Timeless classics such as the imposing Big Pilot show strong resilience on the secondary market. In addition, highly complicated timepieces attract fierce bidding, as demonstrated by the sale of a unique Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph for 200,000 Swiss francs at a charity event.
4. The Masters of Complications
Brands whose central focus is the most technical, microscopic and challenging aspects of watchmaking.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Known as “the watchmaker’s watchmaker” for supplying essential movements to brands such as Patek, AP and Vacheron, JLC has achieved remarkable milestones. These include the legendary Reverso (1931, created for polo players) and the Calibre 101, the world’s smallest mechanical watch, worn by Queen Elizabeth II at her coronation in 1953.
A. Lange & Söhne
The mastery of German Saxony. Revived in 1990 by Walter Lange, it is renowned for its untreated plates and meticulous hand-finishing. Formidable models such as the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon and the unusual Zeitwerk often fetch hundreds of thousands of euros at auction and are coveted by purist connoisseurs.
5. The Independent Visionaries
The latest and most lucrative phenomenon in the pre-owned market is independent watchmakers, whose extremely rare, original timepieces command dizzying prices.
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F.P. Journe: Founded in 1999 under the motto “Invenit et Fecit” (Invented and Made). Innovative models such as the Chronomètre à Résonance easily exceed the 400,000-dollar mark in today’s auction market.
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Vianney Halter: A pioneer who introduced the Antiqua in 1998, blending haute horlogerie with a retro-futuristic steampunk aesthetic (inspired by Jules Verne), with recent auctions reaching around 300,000 Swiss francs.
How to Value a Luxury Watch in the Pre-Owned Market
If you are considering investing or selling, the experts at Alexandra Matias Jewellery rigorously analyse the following factors:
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Rarity and Provenance: Discontinued models or unplanned period features (such as naturally discoloured tropical dials) exponentially increase desirability. The documented history of illustrious former owners also adds a considerable financial premium.
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Structural Condition (No Aggressive Polishing): Untouched watches in original condition invariably command higher prices than watches subjected to aggressive restoration that has compromised the case’s original lines and geometry.
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Documentation (Full Set): Keeping the manufacturer’s box, original warranty, tags and archive certificates is vital. A traceable watch with a Full Set can trade at premiums of up to 50% over an example without documents (head only).
The Trade-In and Curatorial Service at Alexandra Matias Jewellery
Navigating this segment methodically requires a sound, up-to-date appraisal. Our accredited appraisers apply rigorous metrics guided by the latest international quotations in the pre-owned market.
In response to collectors’ natural evolution in taste, we actively promote Trade-In transactions.
How does our watch Trade-In work? It allows you to make productive use of a piece once kept idle in a safe, converting its residual value clearly and swiftly into a new acquisition from our catalogue. This circular economy ensures your investment does not stagnate, allowing you to enjoy the timepieces that appeal to you most in the present moment.
In haute horlogerie, the owner acts as a custodian of an asset destined for the future. Entrust the management and appreciation of your micromechanical heritage to our specialists in Lisbon.
Ready to refresh your collection?
Visit Alexandra Matias Jewellery in Lisbon or contact our team of appraisers to take the next step
The Complete Guide to Haute Horlogerie and the Pre-Owned Market
Timekeeping has always represented a constant human need. Yet in the world of haute horlogerie, this practical function is combined with precision micromechanical engineering and the preservation of a unique heritage.
These mechanical instruments are more than mere timekeepers: they are the result of centuries of tradition, contained within a confined space where technique and design coexist with rigour. Around the world, the great maisons continue to create pieces that become true family heirlooms and excellent vehicles for portfolio diversification.
In this expert guide, we divide the giants of watchmaking into five fundamental categories and explain how the pre-owned market has become one of today’s most profitable and vibrant alternative investment sectors.
1. The Founding Fathers
The brands that set the rules of classical watchmaking remain the pillars of any high-value collection.
Patek Philippe
Founded in Geneva in 1839 by Antoni Patek and Franciszek Czapek, the brand took its definitive form with the arrival of Adrien Philippe (inventor of the keyless winding system). With its celebrated motto “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation”, the brand is the global leader in value stability.
Breguet
Founded in Paris in 1775 by Abraham-Louis Breguet, it possesses an immeasurable inventive heritage. In 1795, Breguet designed the terminal overcoil, and in 1801 he patented the revolutionary tourbillon mechanism.
Vacheron Constantin
In continuous operation since 1755, it is recognised as the world’s oldest continuously operating watch manufacture. The brand, often chosen by figures such as King Farouk of Egypt, is the guardian of Genevan classicism and fine artisanal decoration (enamel, guilloché).
2. Icons of Sport, Culture and Fashion
These brands have transcended watchmaking to become global symbols of status, pop culture and lifestyle.
Rolex
Founded in London in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf, the brand does not focus its production on grand astronomical complications, but rather on absolute robustness. The Oyster case (1926) and the Perpetual rotor (1931) shaped the brand’s evolution.
Cartier
Focused on bold geometric design, Cartier created the Santos in 1904 (for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont), one of the first men’s wristwatches in history. It also designed classics such as the Tank (inspired by First World War military vehicles) and the sinuous Crash.
Omega
Renowned for its chronometric excellence and pioneering spirit, the brand established itself as a true giant by designing tool watches for technical purposes. Originally conceived in 1957 for motorsport, the legendary Speedmaster ultimately transcended the racetrack to become the official watch of NASA astronauts, accompanying humanity to the Moon.
Do you have a watch tucked away and want to know its current value?
Schedule a confidential appraisal with our experts at Alexandra Matias Jewellery
3. The Modern and Functional Revolution
With advances in materials and a challenge to traditional silhouettes, these brands have charted new directions for sports and military watchmaking.
Audemars Piguet
Founded in 1875 and based in Le Brassus, it revolutionised the industry with the launch of the Royal Oak in 1972, a steel model that challenged gold watches in the luxury segment.
IWC Schaffhausen
Based in the German-speaking part of Switzerland, IWC revolutionised the approach to oversized dials and exceptional legibility, combining utility with high precision. Its best-known model, the Portugieser, had a unique origin in 1939: it was created at the request of two Portuguese merchants who demanded the unwavering accuracy of large marine chronometers in a wristwatch.
4. The Masters of Complications
Brands whose central focus is the most technical, microscopic and challenging aspects of watchmaking.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Known as “the watchmaker’s watchmaker” for supplying essential movements to brands such as Patek, AP and Vacheron, JLC has achieved remarkable milestones. These include the legendary Reverso (1931, created for polo players) and the Calibre 101, the world’s smallest mechanical watch, worn by Queen Elizabeth II at her coronation in 1953.
A. Lange & Söhne
The mastery of German Saxony. Revived in 1990 by Walter Lange, it is renowned for its untreated plates and meticulous hand-finishing. Formidable models such as the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon and the unusual Zeitwerk often fetch hundreds of thousands of euros at auction and are coveted by purist connoisseurs.
5. The Independent Visionaries
The latest and most lucrative phenomenon in the pre-owned market is independent watchmakers, whose extremely rare, original timepieces command dizzying prices.
How to Value a Luxury Watch in the Pre-Owned Market
If you are considering investing or selling, the experts at Alexandra Matias Jewellery rigorously analyse the following factors:
The Trade-In and Curatorial Service at Alexandra Matias Jewellery
Navigating this segment methodically requires a sound, up-to-date appraisal. Our accredited appraisers apply rigorous metrics guided by the latest international quotations in the pre-owned market.
In response to collectors’ natural evolution in taste, we actively promote Trade-In transactions.
How does our watch Trade-In work? It allows you to make productive use of a piece once kept idle in a safe, converting its residual value clearly and swiftly into a new acquisition from our catalogue. This circular economy ensures your investment does not stagnate, allowing you to enjoy the timepieces that appeal to you most in the present moment.
In haute horlogerie, the owner acts as a custodian of an asset destined for the future. Entrust the management and appreciation of your micromechanical heritage to our specialists in Lisbon.
Ready to refresh your collection?
Visit Alexandra Matias Jewellery in Lisbon or contact our team of appraisers to take the next step